Family Life in the Heart of Copenhagen: »The City Is Our Backyard«
Everyone has their own way of talking about the place they call home – if only we ask the right questions. In the interview series My Neighborhood, we invite local voices to share what makes their city unique.
You'll discover their favorite hidden gems and beloved public spaces, along with an invitation to explore – or rediscover – cities and neighborhoods across Denmark.
By Andreas Grubbe Kirkelund
My Neighborhood: Copenhagen, City Center
Søren Asmussen, 45, has lived in Copenhagen since 2002 and, since 2009, in the ”Pisserenden” neighborhood of central Copenhagen with his family.
To him, the city feels like home, and the streets of his neighborhood have the close-knit atmosphere of a small village, where neighbors know one another and stop to say hello. Here, he shares some of his favorite places in Copenhagen.
What do you most associate with Copenhagen?
»The harbor baths and the waterfront are probably the first things that come to mind when someone mentions Copenhagen. But more than anything, it's the feeling of being in a capital city that still has a strong sense of local community. It's a big city, but it never feels overwhelming. Compared with many other capitals, Copenhagen is relatively compact, yet it still gives you the sense that you're at the center of something important – without ever feeling too big to navigate. To me, that's what makes Copenhagen so uniquely Copenhagen.«
Where do you most enjoy spending time?
»I love the City Center, where we live. And I love biking around the city, especially through Frederiksstaden – the area between Kongens Nytorv, Kastellet, and the National Gallery of Denmark. I enjoy wandering those streets just to see what's happening. There's a different kind of calm there – at least compared with where I live. It's still the City Center, but it has all the character and atmosphere of old Copenhagen.«
"Of the city's newer neighborhoods, I really like Krøyers Plads and the area on the other side of the Inner Harbour Bridge."
Where do you spend most of your time?
»In the summer, our whole family spends a lot of time at Israels Plads. We're there practically all the time. We also go to Ørstedsparken next door, mostly for walks around the lake, but Israels Plads is much more versatile. There are soccer and basketball courts, skate areas, water features, and it's surrounded by shops, restaurants, and cafes, so everything is right there. It's where we spend most of our time outdoors when the weather is nice.
The square has changed dramatically since it was redesigned about ten years ago. It's become a place people actually use. In a way, it's our backyard.
We also spend quite a bit of time around BLOX. Our boys go to school nearby, and the area has a small harbor bath, playgrounds, pétanque courts, and a cafe inside the building. It's a bit overlooked, but it's actually a really pleasant place to spend time.«
Are there places in the city you think are underrated?
»Østerbro tends to fly under the radar compared with Copenhagen's other neighborhoods. For years it had a reputation for being a little dull – and, to be fair, there was some truth to that. It's definitely quieter. But I think there are some wonderful pockets around Trianglen and toward Nordhavn. I have a couple of friends who live near Bopa Plads and Nordre Frihavnsgade, and it's a really charming area that I think many Copenhageners overlook unless they live nearby.«
Have you discovered any new favorite places?
»Of the city's newer neighborhoods, I really like Krøyers Plads and the area on the other side of the Inner Harbour Bridge. There's a food market there, and it's a great place to meet up with friends.
I'm also a big fan of Axel Towers. It's right next to Tivoli, where we often go with our boys. I think they did an impressive job of adding something so tall and contemporary in that location. Even though the towers are large, they never feel overpowering. Maybe it's because they're all different heights, and I think the golden color of the towers fits beautifully with the rest of the city.
I also really like Bymilen, the new development by Kalvebod Bølge. It has several levels, the kids can skateboard there, and tucked away behind it is a fun little garden that feels almost like a secret. It stretches behind the Danish National Archives all the way to Tivoli Hotel.«
What's your favorite place in the city?
»My favorite streets are the ones in Pisserenden, where we live – Sankt Peders Stræde, Studiestræde, Larsbjørnsstræde, and Teglgårdstræde.
When we wake up in the morning, we look out at a row of colorful houses, each with its own personality. One has a large fig tree, another is completely covered in climbing roses, and a third still has a cannonball embedded in its gable from a war in the 1700s.
The neighborhood is full of independent shops and cafes you won't find anywhere else in the city. That's what I love most about it.«
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